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Blog - JC030 - 23.asp

Cruise JC030

Friday-Saturday (16-17th) January 2009

Day 21-22 (I think) at Sea:

Circumstances dictated a quick visit to the United Kingdom territory of South Georgia to collect some supplies for our journey up to the Falkland Islands. During the brief visit the Scientists and Crew were permitted a few hours to explore the settlement at Grytviken whilst supplies were taken onboard.

Over the coming days I will add more and more collections of images from South Georgia. between everyone many thousands of pictures were taken in the short period we were there. Please Keep looking at the website for the latest images.

Ok, sorry there wasn't a blog yesterday. Firstly there was not much to talk about. The weather had been - well for want of a better work "appalling" - use of expletives is not permitted. The past day saw us transiting in a Force 10 with some truly big waves - one 12m wave gave us a bit of a roller coster ride!! Therefore my laptop stayed firmly on the deck!!

So today we were heading into South Georgia to pick up some necessary equipment. It also gave us the chance to go ashore for a few hours and stretch our legs. However, before anyone could step ashore we needed to be briefed. South Georgia is a very special place that has lots of interesting animals and birds. Obviously the South Georgian government wants to keep it that way!

The sail into Gritviken was very impressive - the scenery is absolutely amazing and I can only imagine a few places in the world that come close to the natural beauty of South Georgia. The landscape is very rugged and numerous glaciers can be seen coming down from the snow-capped mountains. On the journey into South Georgia everyone wanted pictures - the biggest problem was the fierce gale blowing across the decks which made it difficult to hold the camera straight. despite the weather everyone went out on deck and watched - then without warning the wind simply stopped as we passed the headland and it went eerily quiet.

We tied up at the BAS base. BAS employees work for NERC just like us. However, they specialize in working in Polar Regions (i.e the Antarctic - the clue is in the name). The base at South Georgia is very nice and looks out over a lovely vista - although i don't know if I could spent 2 years on deployment like some of the BAS employees do!!

Before we could go ashore our boots needed to be cleaned - incase they contain seeds or any alien germs that could impact the local ecosystems. Velcro on clothing and pockets needed to be checked for seeds that could have been carried from outside the island. After the talk we signed a declaration which basically states we will protect the environment and not remove artifacts - whale bones, harpoons and old equipment literally litter the landscape in places.

The rest of the day was great. The biodiversity is amazing with lots of different seals, penguins and birds. Some of the seals don't like the visitors and chase after you. Other just totally ignore you and fall asleep across the paths. However, I cannot impress on you how smelly seals actually are!!

Our first place we went to after being allowed ashore was the Post Office on the BAS base. I bought lots of little souvenirs whilst everyone else sent postcards. I became the first person to use Chip-and-Pin in the Post Office on South Georgia to the excitement of the Post Lady. Even more amazing was the fact that my credit card worked. Later in the day a penguin pick-pocketed my cash cards but Mark managed to find them on the floor......

The next stop was Shakleton's grave in a small cemetery just outside Grytviken. The walk was nice and we past through the old whaling stations. Just as we got to the cemetery a rather irate seal decided to try and chase us. The cemetery is well kept and contains the graves of numerous whalers who died whilst working on South Georgia. It also contains the grave of the famous Antarctic Explorer - Sir Ernest Shakleton.

Onwards from here I visited the Museum and the small church.

Then I made my way slowly back to the ship taking many of the pictures you will se below....


Grytviken

Grytviken (Swedish for 'Pot Cove') is the principal settlement in the United Kingdom territory of South Georgia in the South Atlantic. It was so named by a 1902 Swedish surveyor who found old English try pots used to render seal oil at the site. It is the best harbour on the island, consisting of a bay (King Edward Cove) within a bay (Cumberland East Bay). The site is very sheltered, provides a substantial area of flat land suitable for building on, and has a good supply of fresh water.

The settlement at Grytviken was established on November 16, 1904, by the Norwegian sea captain Carl Anton Larsen as a whaling station for his Compañía Argentina de Pesca (Argentine Fishing Company). It was phenomenally successful, with 195 whales taken in the first season alone. The whalers utilized every part of the animals - the blubber, meat, bones and viscera were cooked to extract the oil and the bones and meat were turned into fertilizer and fodder. Elephant seals were also hunted for their blubber. Around 300 men worked at the station during its heyday, operating during the southern summer from October to March. A few remained over the winter to maintain the boats and factory. Every few months a transport ship would bring essential supplies to the station and take away the oil and other produce. The following year the Argentine Government established a meteorological station.

Carl Anton Larsen, the founder of Grytviken was a naturalized Briton born in Sandefjord, Norway. In his application for British citizenship, filed with the British Magistrate of South Georgia and granted in 1910, Captain Larsen wrote: "I have given up my Norwegian citizens rights and have resided here since I started whaling in this colony on the 16 November 1904 and have no reason to be of any other citizenship than British, as I have had and intend to have my residence here still for a long time." His family in Grytviken included his wife, three daughters and two sons.

As the manager of Compañía Argentina de Pesca, Larsen organized the construction of Grytviken, a remarkable undertaking accomplished by a team of sixty Norwegians between their arrival on 16 November and commencement of production at the newly built whale-oil factory on 24 December 1904.

Larsen chose the whaling station's site during his 1902 visit while in command of the ship Antarctic of the Swedish Antarctic Expedition (1901-03) led by Otto Nordenskjöld. On that occasion, the name Grytviken (‘Pot Cove’) was given by the Swedish archaeologist and geologist Johan Gunnar Andersson who surveyed part of Thatcher Peninsula and found numerous artifacts and features from sealers’ habitation and industry, including a shallop (a type of small boat) and several try-pots used to boil seal oil. One of those try-pots, having the inscription ‘Johnson and Sons, Wapping Dock London’ is preserved at the South Georgia Museum in Grytviken.

Managers and other senior officers of the whaling stations often had their families living together with them. Among them was Fridthjof Jacobsen whose wife Klara Olette Jacobsen gave birth to two of their children in Grytviken; their daughter Solveig Gunbjörg Jacobsen was the first child ever born in Antarctica, on 8 October 1913. Several more children have been born on South Georgia: recently, even aboard visiting private yachts.

The whale population in the seas around the island was substantially reduced over the following sixty years until the station closed in December 1966, by which time the whale stocks were so low that their continued exploitation was unviable. Even now, the shore around Grytviken is littered with whale bones and the rusting remains of whale oil processing plants and abandoned whaling ships.

Shackleton
Grytviken is closely associated with the British explorer Ernest Shackleton. Shackleton's most famous expedition set out from London on August 1, 1914, to reach the Weddell Sea on January 10, 1915, where the pack ice closed in on their ship, the Endurance. The ship was broken by the ice on October 27, 1915. The 28 crew members managed to flee to Elephant Island, off Antarctica, bringing three small boats with them. All of them survived after Shackleton and five other men managed to reach the southern coast of South Georgia in the James Caird. They arrived at Cave Cove, and camped at Peggotty Bluff, from where they trekked to Stromness on the northeast coast. From Grytviken Shackleton organised a rescue operation to bring home the remaining men.

He again returned to Grytviken, but posthumously, in 1922. He had died unexpectedly from a heart attack at sea at the beginning of another Antarctic expedition, and his widow chose South Georgia as his final resting place. His grave is located south of Grytviken, alongside those of the whalers who died on the island.

Falklands War

During the Falklands War, Grytviken was captured by Argentine forces in early April 1982 following a brief battle with British Royal Marines. The Royal Marines, SAS and SBS retook the settlement three weeks later without a shot being fired.

Joined by the corvette ARA Guerrico, on 3 April the ARA Bahía Paraíso attacked the platoon of 22 Royal Marines deployed at Grytviken. The two-hour battle resulted in the ARA Guerrico being severely damaged and an Argentine helicopter Puma shot down. The Argentine forces sustained 3 men killed and a similar number of wounded, with one wounded on the British side. The British commanding officer Lieutenant Keith Mills was awarded a Distinguished Service Cross for the defence of South Georgia. While the British Magistrate and other civilians and military present in Grytviken were removed from South Georgia, another 15 Britons remained beyond Argentine reach. The losses suffered at Grytviken prevented Argentina from occupying the rest of the island, with Bird Island base, and field camps at Schlieper Bay, Lyell Glacier and St. Andrews Bay remaining under British control.

On 25 April 1982 the Royal Navy damaged and captured the Argentine submarine ARA Santa Fe at South Georgia. The Argentine garrison in Grytviken surrendered without returning the fire. The following day the detachment in Leith Harbour commanded by Captain Alfredo Astiz also surrendered. Finally, the Argentine personnel were removed from the South Sandwich Islands by HMS Endurance on 20 June 1982. Due to evidence of an unauthorised visit, the closed station Corbeta Uruguay was destroyed in January 1983.

Current situation

MuseumAlong with the surrounding area, the station has been declared an Area of Special Tourist Interest (ASTI).

Grytviken is a popular stop for cruise ships visiting Antarctica, and tourists usually land to visit Shackleton's grave. There is a small museum in part of the former whaling station, which is open during the summer tourism season.

The station's church is the only building which retains its original purpose, and is still used occasionally for services. There have been several marriages in Grytviken, with the first one being registered on 24 February 1932, between A.G.N. Jones and Vera Riches, and a most recent one on 19 February 2006 between Peter W. Damisch and Lesley J. Friedsam. January 28, 2007 a service was conducted in remembrance of Anders Hansen (Norwegian whaler buried at Grytviken cemetery in 1943) and to celebrate his great-great-grandson Axel Wattø Eide's baptism occurring in Oslo, Norway the same day.


 

Part 1: Tiny's Pictures

A collection of images taken by "Tiny"

Above: looking towards the whaling station at the base of the mountain

Above: Tiny with the RRS James Cook in the background

Above: Seals

Above: RRS James Cook alongside at the BAS bae

Above: Seals in the grass

Above: Penguins

 

 

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